Main.Standalone History

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July 15, 2013, at 07:20 PM by Roberto Guido - corrected typo. Thanks Dan Bordeau for feedback
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Finally, add the LED. The long leg or the cathode connects to the red wire and the short leg or the anode connects to the 220 ohm resistor going to ground.

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Finally, add the LED. The long leg or the anode connects to the red wire and the short leg or the cathode connects to the 220 ohm resistor going to ground.

September 07, 2010, at 04:49 PM by Tom Igoe -
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Refer to the pin mapping Δ above to be sure you are plugging it in correctly.

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Refer to the pin mapping above to be sure you are plugging it in correctly.

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Be sure to refer to the Arduino pin mapping Δ for help wiring this up.

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Be sure to refer to the Arduino pin mapping for help wiring this up.

September 07, 2010, at 04:38 PM by Tom Igoe -
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http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Hacking/Atmega168PinMap2.png | Arduino Pin Map

September 07, 2010, at 04:37 PM by Tom Igoe -
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September 07, 2010, at 04:36 PM by Tom Igoe -
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September 07, 2010, at 04:35 PM by Tom Igoe -
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Refer to the pin mapping Δ above to be sure you are plugging it in correctly.

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Refer to the pin mapping Δ above to be sure you are plugging it in correctly.

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Be sure to refer to the Arduino pin mapping Δ for help wiring this up.

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Be sure to refer to the Arduino pin mapping Δ for help wiring this up.

September 07, 2010, at 04:29 PM by Tom Igoe -
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_parts.jpg | The Supplies

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the supplies
The Supplies
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_02.jpg | Top Power lines

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toppower
Top Power lines
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_03.jpg | Bottom Power lines

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bottompower
Bottom Power lines
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_04.jpg | Add the 7805 and decoupling capacitors

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7805
Add the 7805 and decoupling capacitors
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_05.jpg | LED

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PowerLED
LED
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_05_supply.jpg | Power Supply Input

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Power Supply Input
Power Supply Input
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_06.jpg | Blank Canvas

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BlankCanvas
Blank Canvas
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduino_pinmap.png | Arduino Pin Map

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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_07.jpg | Add supporting circuitry

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AddingChipCircuitry
Add supporting circuitry
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_08.jpg | Add the Clock & Caps

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AddClock
Add the Clock & Caps
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_09.jpg | Add a reset switch

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AddReset
Add a reset switch
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_10.jpg | LED leads on Arduino pin 13

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LEDWires
LED leads on Arduino pin 13
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Refer to the pin mapping above to be sure you are plugging it in correctly.

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Refer to the pin mapping Δ above to be sure you are plugging it in correctly.

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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_11.jpg | LED on Arduino Pin 13

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LED
LED on Arduino Pin 13
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_12.jpg | Arduino-Ready!

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Arduino-Ready!
Arduino-Ready!
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_13.jpg | Add FT232 USB to Serial Board

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Add USB
Add FT232 USB to Serial Board
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_usbback.jpg | The pinouts of the Sparkfun FT232 breakout

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USBBack
The pinouts of the Sparkfun FT232 breakout
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_14.jpg | Connecting the TX and RX

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TXRX
Connecting the TX and RX
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_mk2.jpg | AVRISP mkII

http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_tiny.jpg | USBtinyISP

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AVRISP mkII
AVRISP mkII

USBtinyISp
USBtinyISP
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_bootload1.jpg | Bootloading on an Arduino board

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ArduinoBootload
Bootloading on an Arduino board
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobb_avradapter.jpg | AVR Programming Adapter

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AVRAdapter
AVR Programming Adapter
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/6pinAVRprogcable.jpg | 6-pin AVR Programmer Cable

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6pinAVRprogcable
6-pin AVR Programmer Cable
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/6pinAVRproghead.jpg | 6-pin AVR Programmer Cable Head

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6pinAVRproghead
6-pin AVR Programmer Cable Head
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_pwrgnd.jpg | Add power and ground

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AVRpwrgnd
Add power and ground
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_plugadapter.jpg | Plug in the AVR adapter

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AVRplug
Plug in the AVR adapter
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_wires.jpg | Add the MISO, SCK, RESET, and MOSI wires

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AVRwires
Add the MISO, SCK, RESET, and MOSI wires
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Be sure to refer to the Arduino pin mapping for help wiring this up.

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Be sure to refer to the Arduino pin mapping Δ for help wiring this up.

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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_plugin.jpg | Plug in the USB cable and AVR programming cable

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Plugin
Plug in the USB cable and AVR programming cable
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_pickboard.png | Pick your board type

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ArduinoPickBoard
Pick your board type
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_burn.png | Choose your programmer. Burn!

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ArduinoBurn
Choose your programmer. Burn!
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_burning.png | Burning

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ArduinoBurning
Burning
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http://itp.nyu.edu/physcomp/uploads/arduinobload_burndone.png | Burn Complete!

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BurnDone
Burn Complete!
September 02, 2009, at 04:01 PM by Tom Igoe -
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This tutorial shows you how to build an Arduino compatible breadboard with an Atmel Atmega8/168 AVR microcontroller and FTDI FT232 breakout board from SparkFun. You could also use the Arduino USB Mini.

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This tutorial shows you how to build an Arduino compatible breadboard with an Atmel Atmega8/168/328 AVR microcontroller and FTDI FT232 breakout board from SparkFun. You could also use the Arduino USB Mini.

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Bootloading your Atmega Chips (Optional)

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Bootloading your Atmega Chips

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If you've already worked with microcontrollers, it is likely that you already have a preferred way to wire up a power supply to your board, so go ahead and do it that way. In case you need some reminders, here are some pictures of one way to go about it. (We are going for a 5V regulated power supply)

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If you've already worked with microcontrollers, it is likely that you already have a preferred way to wire up a power supply to your board, so go ahead and do it that way. In case you need some reminders, here are some pictures of one way to go about it. (This version uses a 5V regulated power supply)

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Add the 7805 power regulator and the lines to power the board. The regulator is a TO-220 package where the IN-line from the external power supply goes IN on the left, ground is in the middle and the 5V OUT is on the right (when facing the front of the regulator). We're also adding power OUT and ground wires that connect to the right rail and power IN and ground wires off to the left where our power supply may go.

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Add the 7805 power regulator and the lines to power the board. The regulator is a TO-220 package where the Input from the external power supply goes input on the left, ground is in the middle and the 5V output is on the right (when facing the front of the regulator). Add power OUT and ground wires that connect to the right and left rails of the breadboard.

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Add an LED on the left side of your board across from the voltage regulator. An LED attached to power like this is a great troubleshooting trick. You'll always know when your board is being powered as well as quickly know if your board is being shorted.

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Add an LED and a 220-ohm resistor on the left side of your board across from the voltage regulator. An LED attached to power like this is a great troubleshooting trick. You'll always know when your board is being powered as well as quickly know if your board is being shorted.

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The red and black wires to the left of the voltage regulator is where your power supply will be plugged in. The red wire is for the POWER and the black wire is for the GROUND. Be sure to only attach a power supply that is between 7-16V. Any lower and you won't get 5V out of your regulator. Any higher and your regulator may get too hot. A 9V battery, 9V DC power supply, or 12V DC power supply is suitable.

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The red and black wires to the left of the voltage regulator is where your power supply will be plugged in. The red wire is for the POWER and the black wire is for the GROUND. Be sure to only attach a power supply that is between 7-16V. Any lower and you won't get 5V out of your regulator. Any higher and your regulator may be damaged. A 9V battery, 9V DC power supply, or 12V DC power supply is suitable.

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Now that the power-basics are done we are ready to load on the chip!

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Now that the power-basics are done you are ready to load on the chip!

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ATMEGA8/168 Basics

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ATMEGA8/168/328 Basics

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Before moving on, this image is a great resource for learning what each of the pins on your Atmega chip do in relation to the Arduino's functions. This will clarify a lot of confusion behind why we hook up certain pins the way we do. For even more detailed information, take a peek at the datasheet for the Atmega 168 (short version) (long version).

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Before moving on, check out this image. It's a great resource for learning what each of the pins on your Atmega chip do in relation to the Arduino's functions. This will clarify a lot of confusion behind why you hook up certain pins the way you do. For even more detailed information, take a peek at the datasheet for the Atmega 168 (short version) (long version). Here's the sheet for the atmega328 (short version) (long version)

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Start by adding a 10k ohm resistor "up" (to power) on the RESET pin in order to prevent the chip from resetting itself during normal operation. The RESET pin reboots the chip when pulled down to ground. In later steps we will show you how to add a reset switch that takes advantage of this.

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Start by connecting a 10k ohm pullup resistor to +5V from the RESET pin in order to prevent the chip from resetting itself during normal operation. The RESET pin reboots the chip when pulled down to ground. In later steps we will show you how to add a reset switch that takes advantage of this.

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  • Pin 20 - AVcc - Suppply voltage for the ADC converter. Needs to be connected to power if ADC isn't being used and to power via a low-pass filter if it is (a low pass filter is a circuit that cleans out noise from the power source, we aren't using one)
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  • Pin 20 - AVcc - Suppply voltage for the ADC converter. Needs to be connected to power if ADC isn't being used and to power via a low-pass filter if it is (a low pass filter is a circuit that reduces noise from the power source. This example isn't using one)
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Add a 16 MHz external clock between pin 9 and 10, and add two 22 pF capacitors running to ground on each of those pins.

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Add a 16 MHz external clock between pin 9 and 10, and add two 22 pF capacitors running to ground from each of those pins.

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This is where we add the small tactile switch so that we can reset the Arduino whenever we'd like and prepare the chip for uploading a new program. A quick momentary press of this switch will reset the chip when needed. Add the switch just above the top of the Atmega chip crossing the gap in the breadboard. Then, add a wire from the bottom left leg of the switch to the RESET pin of the Atmega chip and a wire from the top left leg of the switch to ground.

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Add the small tactile switch so that you can reset the Arduino whenever we'd like and prepare the chip for uploading a new program. A quick momentary press of this switch will reset the chip when needed. Add the switch just above the top of the Atmega chip crossing the gap in the breadboard. Then, add a wire from the bottom left leg of the switch to the RESET pin of the Atmega chip and a wire from the top left leg of the switch to ground.

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The chip I'm using on this board is actually already programmed using the blink_led program that comes with the Arduino software. If you already have an Arduino printed circuit board running it is a good idea to go ahead and check the breadboard version you are building with a chip you know works. The blink_led program blinks pin 13. Pin 13 on the Arduino is NOT the AVR ATMEGA8-16PU/ATMEGA168-16PU pin 13. It is actually pin 19 on the Atmega chip.

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The chip used on this board is actually already programmed using the blink_led program that comes with the Arduino software. If you already have an Arduino printed circuit board running, it is a good idea to go ahead and check the breadboard version you are building with a chip you know works. Pull the chip from your working Arduino and try it on this board. The blink_led program blinks pin 13. Pin 13 on the Arduino is NOT the AVR ATMEGA8-16PU/ATMEGA168-16PU pin 13. It is actually pin 19 on the Atmega chip.

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Connect pin 6 of the breakout board to power and pin 9 to ground. With the USB port facing upward, I'm calling the top left pin 1, the bottom left 9, the top right 10, and the bottom right 18.

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Connect the VCCIO of the breakout board to power and the GND to ground.

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Now, let's get the USB to serial breakout board talking with your new Arduino setup. Connect the RX (pin 2) of your Atmega chip to pin 10 of the USB to serial board, and connect the TX (pin 3) of your Atmega chip to pin 14 of the USB to serial board.

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Now, it's time to get the USB to serial breakout board talking with your new Arduino setup. Connect the RX (pin 2) of your Atmega chip to the TX of the USB to serial board, and connect the TX (pin 3) of your Atmega chip to the RX of the USB to serial board.

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There are also many different kinds of AVR programmers but two are most commonly used here at ITP:

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There are also many different kinds of AVR programmers but two are most commonly used:

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The AVRISP mkII can be found in the ER or can be purchased from Digikey (Part # ATAVRISP2-ND) while the USBtinyISP must be assembled and can be found at Adafruit Industries.

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The AVRISP mkII can be purchased from Digikey (Part # ATAVRISP2-ND) while the USBtinyISP must be assembled and can be found at Adafruit Industries.

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When bootloading an Atmega chip on a breadboard, I found the AVR programming adapter (SKU BOB-08508) from Sparkfun to be incredibly handy. This adapter breaks out the 6 pins from the programmer to 6 inline pins for easy attachment to the breadboard. All the pins are also labeled making it very easy to connect it up to your chip.

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When bootloading an Atmega chip on a breadboard, the AVR programming adapter (SKU BOB-08508) from Sparkfun is incredibly handy. This adapter breaks out the 6 pins from the programmer to 6 inline pins for easy attachment to the breadboard. All the pins are also labeled making it very easy to connect it up to your chip.

September 02, 2009, at 03:43 PM by Tom Igoe -
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Standalone Atmega8

David A. Mellis

Here's a schematic for the Atmega8 with an external crystal oscillator. On the chip are written the corresponding Arduino pin numbers for each Atmega8 pin. The pins prefixed with a D refer to digital i/o pins, while the pins prefixed with an A refer to analog input pins. For example, Atmega8 pin 19, PB5, is digital pin 13 on the Arduino board.

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September 15, 2005, at 10:20 PM by 128.122.151.128 -
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September 15, 2005, at 10:19 PM by 128.122.151.128 -
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May 17, 2005, at 07:52 PM by 81.114.121.230 -
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Here's a schematic for the Atmega8 with an external crystal oscillator. On the chip are written the corresponding Arduino pin numbers for each Atmega8 pin. For example, Atmega8 pin 19, PB5, is digital pin 13 on the Arduino board.

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Here's a schematic for the Atmega8 with an external crystal oscillator. On the chip are written the corresponding Arduino pin numbers for each Atmega8 pin. The pins prefixed with a D refer to digital i/o pins, while the pins prefixed with an A refer to analog input pins. For example, Atmega8 pin 19, PB5, is digital pin 13 on the Arduino board.

May 17, 2005, at 07:51 PM by 81.114.121.230 -
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Here's a diagram of the Atmega8. In parentheses are the corresponding pin numbers from the Arduino board. For example, Atmega8 pin 19, PB5, is digital pin 13 on the Arduino board. But remember, you'll need your own resistor if you want to hook an LED up to this pin.

  
             +-\/-+
       PC6  1|    |28  PC5 (AI 0)
 (D 0) PD0  2|    |27  PC4 (AI 1)
 (D 1) PD1  3|    |26  PC3 (AI 2)
 (D 2) PD2  4|    |25  PC2 (AI 3)
 (D 3) PD3  5|    |24  PC1 (AI 4)
 (D 4) PD4  6|    |23  PC0 (AI 5)
       VCC  7|    |22  GND
       GND  8|    |21  AREF
       PB6  9|    |20  AVCC
       PB7 10|    |19  PB5 (D 13)
 (D 5) PD5 11|    |18  PB4 (D 12)
 (D 6) PD6 12|    |17  PB3 (D 11)
 (D 7) PD7 13|    |16  PB2 (D 10)
 (D 8) PB0 14|    |15  PB1 (D 9)
             +----+

Pins 9 and 10 (PB6 and PB7) should be hooked up to an external oscillator (16 mhz), with two 22 pf capacitors.

And here's a schematic of the components you need.

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Here's a schematic for the Atmega8 with an external crystal oscillator. On the chip are written the corresponding Arduino pin numbers for each Atmega8 pin. For example, Atmega8 pin 19, PB5, is digital pin 13 on the Arduino board.

May 17, 2005, at 07:49 PM by 81.114.121.230 -
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May 06, 2005, at 06:34 PM by 81.114.121.230 -
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David A. Mellis

May 06, 2005, at 06:07 PM by 81.114.121.230 -
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Standalone Atmega8

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Standalone Atmega8

May 06, 2005, at 06:06 PM by 81.114.121.230 -
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May 06, 2005, at 06:01 PM by 81.114.121.230 -
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And here's a schematic of the components you need.

Attach:atmega8schematic.png

May 06, 2005, at 02:55 PM by 81.114.121.230 -
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Here's a diagram of the Atmega8. In parentheses are the corresponding pin numbers from the Arduino board. For example, Atmega8 pin 19, PB5, is digital pin 13 on the Arduino board. But remember, you'll need your own resistor if you want to hook an LED up to this pin.

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// ATMEL ATMEGA8 / ARDUINO // // +-\/-+ // PC6 1| |28 PC5 (AI 0) // (D 0) PD0 2| |27 PC4 (AI 1) // (D 1) PD1 3| |26 PC3 (AI 2) // (D 2) PD2 4| |25 PC2 (AI 3) // (D 3) PD3 5| |24 PC1 (AI 4) // (D 4) PD4 6| |23 PC0 (AI 5) // VCC 7| |22 GND // GND 8| |21 AREF // PB6 9| |20 AVCC // PB7 10| |19 PB5 (D 13) // (D 5) PD5 11| |18 PB4 (D 12) // (D 6) PD6 12| |17 PB3 (D 11) // (D 7) PD7 13| |16 PB2 (D 10) // (D 8) PB0 14| |15 PB1 (D 9) // +----+

  @]
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             +-\/-+
       PC6  1|    |28  PC5 (AI 0)
 (D 0) PD0  2|    |27  PC4 (AI 1)
 (D 1) PD1  3|    |26  PC3 (AI 2)
 (D 2) PD2  4|    |25  PC2 (AI 3)
 (D 3) PD3  5|    |24  PC1 (AI 4)
 (D 4) PD4  6|    |23  PC0 (AI 5)
       VCC  7|    |22  GND
       GND  8|    |21  AREF
       PB6  9|    |20  AVCC
       PB7 10|    |19  PB5 (D 13)
 (D 5) PD5 11|    |18  PB4 (D 12)
 (D 6) PD6 12|    |17  PB3 (D 11)
 (D 7) PD7 13|    |16  PB2 (D 10)
 (D 8) PB0 14|    |15  PB1 (D 9)
             +----+
  @]

Pins 9 and 10 (PB6 and PB7) should be hooked up to an external oscillator (16 mhz), with two 22 pf capacitors.

HomePage

May 06, 2005, at 02:52 PM by 81.114.121.230 -
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Standalone Atmega8

  
// ATMEL ATMEGA8 / ARDUINO
//
//             +-\/-+
//       PC6  1|    |28  PC5 (AI 0)
// (D 0) PD0  2|    |27  PC4 (AI 1)
// (D 1) PD1  3|    |26  PC3 (AI 2)
// (D 2) PD2  4|    |25  PC2 (AI 3)
// (D 3) PD3  5|    |24  PC1 (AI 4)
// (D 4) PD4  6|    |23  PC0 (AI 5)
//       VCC  7|    |22  GND
//       GND  8|    |21  AREF
//       PB6  9|    |20  AVCC
//       PB7 10|    |19  PB5 (D 13)
// (D 5) PD5 11|    |18  PB4 (D 12)
// (D 6) PD6 12|    |17  PB3 (D 11)
// (D 7) PD7 13|    |16  PB2 (D 10)
// (D 8) PB0 14|    |15  PB1 (D 9)
//             +----+

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