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Conectar la Arduino LilyPad es un poco mas complicado que con una Arduino normal (ver mas adelante para instrucciones y fotos).
Conectar la Arduino LilyPad es un poco mas complicado que una Arduino normal (ver mas adelante para instrucciones y fotos).
Nota: Mas información sobre los primeros pasos con la Arduino LilyPad los puede ver aquí.
Nota: Mas información sobre los primeros pasos con la Arduino LilyPad aquí.
El agujero de cada una de los hojales de la Arduino LilyPad es lo suficientemente grande como para que una aguja de coser pase por el. Puede hacer ambas uniones, la física y la electrica, con costuras de hilo conductor. Pase el hilo por cada hojal varias veces para asegurar un buen contacto. En la siguiente foto se aprecia la costura de una LilyPad:
El agujero de cada uno de los hojales de la Arduino LilyPad es lo suficientemente grande como para que una aguja de coser pase por el. Puede hacer ambas uniones, la física y la electrica, con costuras de hilo conductor. Pase el hilo por cada hojal varias veces para asegurar un buen contacto. En la siguiente foto se aprecia la costura de una LilyPad:
To connect earlier versions of the board or for information on other connection options see the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website
The hole on each tab of the LilyPad is large enough for a sewing needle to pass through. You can make both electrical and physical connections with stitching in conductive thread. Sew through the holes several times to insure good contact. Here's a picture showing a sewn LilyPad:
Para conectar versiones anteriores de la placa o para obtener información sobre otras formas de conexión puede consultar el tutorial Arduino LilyPad en la web de Leah.
El agujero de cada una de los hojales de la Arduino LilyPad es lo suficientemente grande como para que una aguja de coser pase por el. Puede hacer ambas uniones, la física y la electrica, con costuras de hilo conductor. Pase el hilo por cada hojal varias veces para asegurar un buen contacto. En la siguiente foto se aprecia la costura de una LilyPad:
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable. See SparkFun for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
Vea el tutorial de Arduino LilyPad en el sitio web de Leah para mas información sobre la construcción de trabajos cosibles. Puede ver mas complementos cosibles y accesorios para LilyPad en SparkFun .
To program the LilyPad Arduino, you need to connect it to your computer. The SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout plugs into the 6-pin male header on the newest version of the LilyPad. Use a USB MiniB cable to connect the FTDI basic breakout to your computer. You can also use an FTDI USB-TTL Serial cable.
Para programar el Arduino LilyPad es necesario conectarlo a un ordenador. El SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout encaja en el conector hembra de 6 pines de la nueva versión del Arduino LilyPad. Hay que usar un cable USB con conector MiniB para conectar el FTDI basic breakout al ordenador. También puede usar un FTDI USB-TTL Serial cable.
To get started with the LilyPad Arduino, follow the directions for the Arduino NG on your operating system (Windows, Mac OS X, Linux. Connecting the LilyPad Arduino is a bit more complicated than a regular Arduino board (see below for instructions and photos).
The LilyPad Arduino is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board. Don't connect more than 5.5 volts to the + tab or reverse the power and ground pins of your power supply, or you will very likely kill the ATmega on the LilyPad Arduino. You can't remove the ATmega, so if you kill it, you need a new LilyPad.
Note: More information about getting started with the LilyPad Arduino can be found here.
Para comenzar con la Arduino LilyPad siga las mismas indicaciones que para conectar una Arduino NG en su sistema operativo (Windows, Mac OS X, Linux.
Conectar la Arduino LilyPad es un poco mas complicado que con una Arduino normal (ver mas adelante para instrucciones y fotos).
La Arduino LilyPad es más frágil y fácil de romper que otros tipos de Arduinos. Nunca conecte más de 5.5v en la toma positiva ni invierta la polaridad de los pines positivo y GND de alimentación o corre el riesgo de destruir el chip ATmega. En este modelo no se puede sustituir el chip ATmega, por lo que si lo destruye necesitará una nueva LilyPad.
Nota: Mas información sobre los primeros pasos con la Arduino LilyPad los puede ver aquí.
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable. See SparkFun for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable. See SparkFun for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
To program the LilyPad Arduino, you need to connect it to your computer. To do this, you'll need to connect:
The best way to attach your LilyPad is to use the current compatible SparkFun connector. To connect earlier versions of the board or for information on other connection options see Leah's LilyPad site.
The SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout plugs into the 6-pin male header on the newest version of the LilyPad. Use a USB MiniB cable to connect the FTDI basic breakout to your computer. You can also use an FTDI USB-TTL Serial cable.
To program the LilyPad Arduino, you need to connect it to your computer. The SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout plugs into the 6-pin male header on the newest version of the LilyPad. Use a USB MiniB cable to connect the FTDI basic breakout to your computer. You can also use an FTDI USB-TTL Serial cable.
To connect earlier versions of the board or for information on other connection options see the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website
The LilyPad Arduino is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board. Don't connect more than 5.5 volts to the + tab or reverse the power and ground pins of your power supply, or you will very likely kill the ATmega168V on the LilyPad Arduino. You can't remove the ATmega168V, so if you kill it, you need a new LilyPad.
The LilyPad Arduino is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board. Don't connect more than 5.5 volts to the + tab or reverse the power and ground pins of your power supply, or you will very likely kill the ATmega on the LilyPad Arduino. You can't remove the ATmega, so if you kill it, you need a new LilyPad.
You have a few options for connecting the board to your computer: the SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout, an FTDI USB-TTL Serial cable, the SparkFun LilyPad USB Link, the Mini USB Adapter, a regular Arduino board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
The best way to attach your LilyPad is to use the current compatible SparkFun connector. To connect earlier versions of the board or for information on other connection options see Leah's LilyPad site.
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the 4-pin header on older versions of the LilyPad. If you have an LilyPad without pre-mounted pins, solder a right angle male header to the -, tx, rx, 5v labeled holes at the top of your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here and right angle male headers are available here.

Solder a right angle male header to the Arduino mini USB adapter and then use female-female jumper cables to connect +,-,tx, and rx on the two boards. Right angle male headers are available here and female-female jumper cables are available here. On the version 3 Arduino mini USB adapter you want to connect tx to tx and rx to rx. We're using a red jumper for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.

Here is a close up view of the miniusb side of the connection:

And a close up of the LilyPad side of the connection:

You can also use an Arduino NG to connect the LilyPad Arduino to your computer, using a regular Arduino as a power supply and USB/Serial connection. Just remove the ATmega8 or ATmega168 from the regular Arduino and then use jumper wires and alligator clips to attach the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad to the corresponding pins on the NG. Here's a photo.

You have a few options for connecting the board to your computer: the SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout, the SparkFun LilyPad USB Link, the Mini USB Adapter, a regular Arduino board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
You have a few options for connecting the board to your computer: the SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout, an FTDI USB-TTL Serial cable, the SparkFun LilyPad USB Link, the Mini USB Adapter, a regular Arduino board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
The SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout plugs into the 6-pin male header on the newest version of the LilyPad. Use a USB MiniB cable to connect the FTDI basic breakout to your computer.
The SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout plugs into the 6-pin male header on the newest version of the LilyPad. Use a USB MiniB cable to connect the FTDI basic breakout to your computer. You can also use an FTDI USB-TTL Serial cable.
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to the -, tx, rx, 5v labeled holes at the top of your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here and right angle male headers are available here.
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the 4-pin header on older versions of the LilyPad. If you have an LilyPad without pre-mounted pins, solder a right angle male header to the -, tx, rx, 5v labeled holes at the top of your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here and right angle male headers are available here.
You have a few options for connecting the board to your computer: the SparkFun LilyPad USB Link, the Mini USB Adapter, a regular Arduino board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
You have a few options for connecting the board to your computer: the SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout, the SparkFun LilyPad USB Link, the Mini USB Adapter, a regular Arduino board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
The SparkFun FTDI Basic Breakout plugs into the 6-pin male header on the newest version of the LilyPad. Use a USB MiniB cable to connect the FTDI basic breakout to your computer.

Note: More information about getting started with the LilyPad Arduino can be found on Leah's LilyPad Arduino pages.
Note: More information about getting started with the LilyPad Arduino can be found here.
Note: More information about getting started with the LilyPad Arduino can be found here: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad
Note: More information about getting started with the LilyPad Arduino can be found on Leah's LilyPad Arduino pages.
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable. See SparkFun for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable. See SparkFun for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad/lilypad.html. See http://www.sparkfun.com for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable. See SparkFun for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to the -, tx, rx, 5v labeled holes at the top of your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here. and right angle male headers are available here
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to the -, tx, rx, 5v labeled holes at the top of your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here and right angle male headers are available here.
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to the -, tx, rx, 5v labeled holes at the top of your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8604 and right angle male headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to the -, tx, rx, 5v labeled holes at the top of your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here. and right angle male headers are available here
Solder a right angle male header to the Arduino mini USB adapter and then use female-female jumper cables to connect +,-,tx, and rx on the two boards. Right angle headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553 and female-female jumper cables are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8430 On the version 3 Arduino mini USB adapter you want to connect tx to tx and rx to rx. We're using a red jumper for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
Solder a right angle male header to the Arduino mini USB adapter and then use female-female jumper cables to connect +,-,tx, and rx on the two boards. Right angle male headers are available here and female-female jumper cables are available here. On the version 3 Arduino mini USB adapter you want to connect tx to tx and rx to rx. We're using a red jumper for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
Solder a right angle male header to the Arduino mini USB adapter and then use female-female jumper cables to connect +,-,tx, and rx on the two boards. Right angle male headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553 and female-female jumper cables are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8430 On the version 3 Arduino mini USB adapter you want to connect tx to tx and rx to rx. We're using a red jumper for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
Solder a right angle male header to the Arduino mini USB adapter and then use female-female jumper cables to connect +,-,tx, and rx on the two boards. Right angle headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553 and female-female jumper cables are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8430 On the version 3 Arduino mini USB adapter you want to connect tx to tx and rx to rx. We're using a red jumper for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad/lilypad.html
http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad
You have a few options for connecting the board to your computer: the SparkFun LilyPad USB Link, the Mini USB Adapter, an Arduino NG board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
You have a few options for connecting the board to your computer: the SparkFun LilyPad USB Link, the Mini USB Adapter, a regular Arduino board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
Solder a right angle male header to the Arduino mini USB adapter and then use female-female jumper cables to connect +,-,tx, and rx on the two boards. Right angle male headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553 and female-female jumper cables are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8430
On the version 3 Arduino mini USB adapter you want to connect tx to tx and rx to rx. We're using a red jumper for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
Solder a right angle male header to the Arduino mini USB adapter and then use female-female jumper cables to connect +,-,tx, and rx on the two boards. Right angle male headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553 and female-female jumper cables are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8430 On the version 3 Arduino mini USB adapter you want to connect tx to tx and rx to rx. We're using a red jumper for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
On the version 3 Arduino mini USB adapter you want to connect tx to tx and rx to rx. We're using a red jumper for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
On the version 3 Arduino mini USB adapter you want to connect tx to tx and rx to rx. We're using a red jumper for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX. Here is a close up view of the miniusb side of the connection:
Here is a close up view of the miniusb side of the connection:
Now you can attach the LilyPad to your computer by plugging the Mini USB into your computer and clipping the alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad. If you have a LilyPad whose TX and RX tabs are underneath a male header, you can trim the header pins to make room for your clips. You might want to cut a piece of foam or felt to put under your LilyPad before attaching the clips. This will make them less prone to slipping. Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.

And here's a close-up showing how the alligator clips attach to the LilyPad.

You can also use an Arduino NG to connect the LilyPad Arduino to your computer, using a regular Arduino as a power supply and USB/Serial connection. Just remove the ATmega8 or ATmega168 from the regular Arduino and then use jumper wires and alligator clips to attach the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad to the corresponding pins on the NG. Here's a photo.

You can also use an Arduino NG to connect the LilyPad Arduino to your computer, using the Arduino NG as a power supply and USB/Serial connection. Just remove the ATmega8 or ATmega168 from the NG and then use jumper wires and alligator clips to attach the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad to the corresponding pins on the NG. Here's a photo.

Solder alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - pins on the front of the Mini USB Adapter. We're using a red clip for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire, and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to cover the solder joints with plastic. This will prevent them from breaking. Here is a close-up view of the modified Mini USB Adapter before hot glue was applied.
Solder a right angle male header to the Arduino mini USB adapter and then use female-female jumper cables to connect +,-,tx, and rx on the two boards. Right angle male headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553 and female-female jumper cables are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8430

On the version 3 Arduino mini USB adapter you want to connect tx to tx and rx to rx. We're using a red jumper for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX. Here is a close up view of the miniusb side of the connection:
And a close up of the LilyPad side of the connection:

Note: A more detailed guide to getting started with the LilyPad Arduino can be found here:
Note: More information about getting started with the LilyPad Arduino can be found here:
You have a few options for connecting the board to your computer: the Mini USB Adapter, an Arduino NG board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
You have a few options for connecting the board to your computer: the SparkFun LilyPad USB Link, the Mini USB Adapter, an Arduino NG board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to the -, tx, rx, 5v labeled holes at the top of your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here: http://www.sparkfun.comcommerce/product_info.php?products_id=8604 and right angle male headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to the -, tx, rx, 5v labeled holes at the top of your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8604 and right angle male headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553


The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here: http://www.sparkfun.comcommerce/product_info.php?products_id=8604 and right angle male headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553

The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to the -, tx, rx, 5v labeled holes at the top of your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here: http://www.sparkfun.comcommerce/product_info.php?products_id=8604 and right angle male headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553

The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to your LilyPad to make the connection. LilyPad USB Link available here: http://www.sparkfun.comcommerce/product_info.php?products_id=8604 and right angle male headers available here (just snap apart to get the 4 pins you need): http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to your LilyPad to make the connection. The LilyPad USB Link is available here: http://www.sparkfun.comcommerce/product_info.php?products_id=8604 and right angle male headers are available here: http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553
The SparkFun LilyPad USB Link plugs into the male header pins on the newest version of the LilyPad. If you have an earlier LilyPad version, solder a right angle male header to your LilyPad to make the connection. LilyPad USB Link available here: http://www.sparkfun.comcommerce/product_info.php?products_id=8604 and right angle male headers available here (just snap apart to get the 4 pins you need): http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=553

Now you can attach the LilyPad to your computer by plugging the Mini USB into your computer and clipping the alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad. You might want to cut a piece of felt to put under your LilyPad before attaching the clips. This will make them less prone to slipping. Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.
Now you can attach the LilyPad to your computer by plugging the Mini USB into your computer and clipping the alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad. If you have a LilyPad whose TX and RX tabs are underneath a male header, you can trim the header pins to make room for your clips. You might want to cut a piece of foam or felt to put under your LilyPad before attaching the clips. This will make them less prone to slipping. Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.
And here is a complete view after hot glue application.

See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad/lilypad.html. Pay special attention to the power supply tips. See http://www.sparkfun.com for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad/lilypad.html. See http://www.sparkfun.com for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
For a more detailed guide to getting started, see: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad/lilypad.html,
Note: A more detailed guide to getting started with the LilyPad Arduino can be found here: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad/lilypad.html
For more detailed instructions, see: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad/lilypad.html,
For a more detailed guide to getting started, see: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad/lilypad.html,
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/diy/diy_lilypad_arduino.html. Pay special attention to the power supply tips. See http://www.sparkfun.com for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad/lilypad.html. Pay special attention to the power supply tips. See http://www.sparkfun.com for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire, and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to cover the solder joints with plastic. This will prevent them from breaking. Here is a close-up view of the modified Mini USB Adapter.
Attach:miniusb-clips_close2.jpg Δ
And here is a complete view.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire, and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to cover the solder joints with plastic. This will prevent them from breaking. Here is a close-up view of the modified Mini USB Adapter before hot glue was applied.

And here is a complete view after hot glue application.


For more detailed instructions, see: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/LilyPad/lilypad.html,

See http://www.sparkfun.com for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
See the LilyPad Arduino tutorial on Leah's website for more information about building a working wearable: http://www.cs.colorado.edu/~buechley/diy/diy_lilypad_arduino.html. Pay special attention to the power supply tips. See http://www.sparkfun.com for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
Now you can attach the LilyPad to your computer by plugging the Mini USB into your computer and clipping the alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad. You might want to cut a round piece of felt to go under your LilyPad before attaching the clips. This will make them less prone to slipping. Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.
Now you can attach the LilyPad to your computer by plugging the Mini USB into your computer and clipping the alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad. You might want to cut a piece of felt to put under your LilyPad before attaching the clips. This will make them less prone to slipping. Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.
Now you can attach the LilyPad to your computer by plugging the Mini USB into your computer and clipping the alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad. Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.
Now you can attach the LilyPad to your computer by plugging the Mini USB into your computer and clipping the alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad. You might want to cut a round piece of felt to go under your LilyPad before attaching the clips. This will make them less prone to slipping. Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.
The hole on each tab of the LilyPad is large enough for a sewing needle to pass comfortably through. Make electrical and physical connections with stitching in conductive thread. Go through each hole several times to insure good contact. Here's a picture showing a sewn LilyPad:
The hole on each tab of the LilyPad is large enough for a sewing needle to pass through. You can make both electrical and physical connections with stitching in conductive thread. Sew through the holes several times to insure good contact. Here's a picture showing a sewn LilyPad:
See http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/categories.php?cPath=2_135? for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
See http://www.sparkfun.com for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
See Spark Fun Electronics?,http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/categories.php?cPath=2_135 for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
See http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/categories.php?cPath=2_135? for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.


The hole on each tab of the LilyPad is large enough for a sewing needle to pass comfortably through. Make electrical and physical connections with stitching in conductive thread. Go through each hole several times to insure good contact. Here's a picture showing a sewn LilyPad:

See Spark Fun Electronics?,http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/categories.php?cPath=2_135 for more stitchable modules that you can use with your LilyPad Arduino.
To use the LilyPad Arduino, you need to connect:
To program the LilyPad Arduino, you need to connect it to your computer. To do this, you'll need to connect:
You have a few options for connecting the board: the Mini USB Adapter, a regular Arduino board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
You have a few options for connecting the board to your computer: the Mini USB Adapter, an Arduino NG board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
Clip the legs off of the Mini USB Adapter and solder alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - pins on the front of the board. We're using a red clip for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
Solder alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - pins on the front of the Mini USB Adapter. We're using a red clip for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
Now you can attach the LilyPad to your computer by clipping the alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad. Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.
Now you can attach the LilyPad to your computer by plugging the Mini USB into your computer and clipping the alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad. Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.
To connect the LilyPad Arduino to your computer via an Arduino NG, remove the ATmega8 or ATmega168 from the NG and then use jumper wires and alligator clips to attach the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad to the corresponding pins on the NG. Here's a photo.
You can also use an Arduino NG to connect the LilyPad Arduino to your computer, using the Arduino NG as a power supply and USB/Serial connection. Just remove the ATmega8 or ATmega168 from the NG and then use jumper wires and alligator clips to attach the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad to the corresponding pins on the NG. Here's a photo.
Clip the legs off of the Mini USB Adapter and solder alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - pins on the front of the board. I use a red clip for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire, and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to prevent the solder joints from breaking. Here is a close-up view of the modified Mini USB Adapter.
Clip the legs off of the Mini USB Adapter and solder alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - pins on the front of the board. We're using a red clip for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire, and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to cover the solder joints with plastic. This will prevent them from breaking. Here is a close-up view of the modified Mini USB Adapter.
And here's a close-up showing how the alligator clips connect to the LilyPad.
And here's a close-up showing how the alligator clips attach to the LilyPad.
The LilyPad Arduino is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board. Don't connect more than 5 volts to the + tab or reverse the power and ground pins of your power supply, or you will very likely kill the ATmega168V on the LilyPad Arduino. You can't remove the ATmega168V, so if you kill it, you need a new LilyPad.
The LilyPad Arduino is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board. Don't connect more than 5.5 volts to the + tab or reverse the power and ground pins of your power supply, or you will very likely kill the ATmega168V on the LilyPad Arduino. You can't remove the ATmega168V, so if you kill it, you need a new LilyPad.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire from one of the halves and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to prevent the solder joints from breaking when the wires move. Here is a close-up view of the modified Mini USB Adapter.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire, and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to prevent the solder joints from breaking. Here is a close-up view of the modified Mini USB Adapter.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire from one of the halves and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to prevent the solder joints from breaking when the wires move. Here is a close-up view of the protected solder joints.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire from one of the halves and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to prevent the solder joints from breaking when the wires move. Here is a close-up view of the modified Mini USB Adapter.
And here is a photo showing a complete view of the modified Mini USB Adapter.
And here is a complete view.




And here's a close-up showing how the alligator clips connect to the LilyPad.



To connect the LilyPad Arduino to your computer via an Arduino NG, remove the ATmega8 or ATmega168 from the NG and then use jumper wires and alligator clips to attach the LilyPad Arduino to the TX, RX, +, and - pins on the NG. Here are photos of the LilyPad Arduino connected to a serial Arduino.
To connect the LilyPad Arduino to your computer via an Arduino NG, remove the ATmega8 or ATmega168 from the NG and then use jumper wires and alligator clips to attach the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad to the corresponding pins on the NG. Here's a photo.
Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.
Now you can attach the LilyPad to your computer by clipping the alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - tabs on the LilyPad. Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.




And here is a photo showing a complete view of the modified Mini USB Adapter.
And here is a photo showing a complete view of the modified Mini USB Adapter.

Clip the legs off of the Mini USB Adapter and solder alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - pins on the front of the board. I use red for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire from one of the halves and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to prevent the solder joints from breaking when the wires move. Here is a photo showing the modified Mini USB Adapter.
Clip the legs off of the Mini USB Adapter and solder alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - pins on the front of the board. I use a red clip for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire from one of the halves and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to prevent the solder joints from breaking when the wires move. Here is a close-up view of the protected solder joints.
And here is a photo showing a complete view of the modified Mini USB Adapter.


Here's a photo of the LilyPad Arduino connected to a regular Arduino. The regular Arduino has its ATmega8 removed and is being used for its USB connection and power source.
To connect the LilyPad Arduino to your computer via an Arduino NG, remove the ATmega8 or ATmega168 from the NG and then use jumper wires and alligator clips to attach the LilyPad Arduino to the TX, RX, +, and - pins on the NG. Here are photos of the LilyPad Arduino connected to a serial Arduino.
Clip the legs off of the Mini USB Adapter and solder alligator clips to the TX, RX, +, and - pins on the front of the board. I use red for +, black for -, green for TX and yellow for RX.
To attach an alligator clip, cut it in half, strip the insulation off the wire from one of the halves and solder the wire to the Mini USB Adapter. Once all four clips are soldered on, use a hot glue gun to prevent the solder joints from breaking when the wires move. Here is a photo showing the modified Mini USB Adapter.

The LilyPad Arduino is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board. Don't connect more than 5 volts to the + pin or reverse the power and ground pins of your power supply, or you will very likely kill the ATmega168V on the LilyPad Arduino. You can't remove the ATmega168V, so if you kill it, you need a new LilyPad.
The LilyPad Arduino is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board. Don't connect more than 5 volts to the + tab or reverse the power and ground pins of your power supply, or you will very likely kill the ATmega168V on the LilyPad Arduino. You can't remove the ATmega168V, so if you kill it, you need a new LilyPad.
Here's a photo of the LilyPad Arduino connected to an Arduino NG. The NG has its ATmega8 removed and is being used for its USB connection and power source.
Here's a photo of the LilyPad Arduino connected to a regular Arduino. The regular Arduino has its ATmega8 removed and is being used for its USB connection and power source.




The Arduino Mini is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board. Don't connect more than 5 volts to the + pin or reverse the power and ground pins of your power supply, or you will very likely kill the ATmega168V on the LilyPad Arduino. You can't remove the ATmega168V, so if you kill it, you need a new LilyPad.
The LilyPad Arduino is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board. Don't connect more than 5 volts to the + pin or reverse the power and ground pins of your power supply, or you will very likely kill the ATmega168V on the LilyPad Arduino. You can't remove the ATmega168V, so if you kill it, you need a new LilyPad.
Here's a photo of the LilyPad Arduino connected to an Arduino NG. The NG has its ATmega8 removed and is being used for its USB connection, power source, and reset button. Thus, you can reset the Arduino Mini just by pressing the button on the NG.
Here's a photo of the LilyPad Arduino connected to an Arduino NG. The NG has its ATmega8 removed and is being used for its USB connection and power source.
To get started with the LilyPad Arduino, follow the directions for the Arduino NG on your operating system (Windows, Mac OS X, Linux), with the following modifications:
The Arduino Mini is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board.
To get started with the LilyPad Arduino, follow the directions for the Arduino NG on your operating system (Windows, Mac OS X, Linux. Connecting the LilyPad Arduino is a bit more complicated than a regular Arduino board (see below for instructions and photos).
The Arduino Mini is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board. Don't connect more than 5 volts to the + pin or reverse the power and ground pins of your power supply, or you will very likely kill the ATmega168V on the LilyPad Arduino. You can't remove the ATmega168V, so if you kill it, you need a new LilyPad.
To get started with the LilyPad Arduino, follow the directions for the Arduino NG on your operating system (Windows, Mac OS X, Linux), with the following modifications:
The Arduino Mini is more fragile and easy to break than a regular Arduino board.
To use the LilyPad Arduino, you need to connect:
You have a few options for connecting the board: the Mini USB Adapter, a regular Arduino board, or your own power supply and USB/Serial adapter.
Here is a photo showing the LilyPad Arduino connected to the Mini USB adapter.
Here's a photo of the LilyPad Arduino connected to an Arduino NG. The NG has its ATmega8 removed and is being used for its USB connection, power source, and reset button. Thus, you can reset the Arduino Mini just by pressing the button on the NG.