Ensamblando la placa Arduino USB v2.0

Primero suelda el chip FTDI FT232BM (o BL) a la placa. Este es el componente más difícil de soldar, ya que es un chip de montaje en superficie. La esquina del chip con el punto tiene que estar alineada con el punto de la placa donde va el chip.

Puedes soldar este componente a la placa sin soldador. Solo tienes que limpiar las pistas y los extremos de los pines con fundente de soldar (flux). Entonces posiciona el chip de forma precisa. Mantenlo en el sitio con un palillo u otro elemento que lo mantenga sin mover. Estaña el soldador y limpia cualquier exceso, dejando solo una capa fina y brillante en la punta. Toca con la punta del soldador un pin de una esquina del chip. Después de un segundo o dos debes ver el pin más brillante, justo cuando el estaño pase del soldador al pin y a la pista de la placa. Solo deberías necesitar un segundo o dos por pin. No mantengas el soldador demasiado en cada pin, o quemarás el chip y la placa.

Fija el chip soldando las esquinas opuestas primero. Entonces no necesitarás la sujección extra, y podrás sujetar la placa firmemente con la otra mano. Una vez que hayas hecho las esquinas, suelda el resto de pines de la misma forma.

Una vez que tengas el chip USB soldado, respira con alivio. El resto es sencillo comparado con esto. Así es como debería verse ahora:

Siguiente paso

Assembling the Arduino USB Board v2.0

Assembling the Arduino USB Board v2.0

Tom Igoe

You can solder this part to the board without any solder. Just clean the solder pads on the board and the ends of the pins with solder flux. Then position the chip very precisely. Hold it down with a toothpick or other implement that will hold it steady. Tin your iron then wipe off any excess colder, leaving just a thin, shiny coat on the iron. Touch the tip of the iron to a corner pin of the chip. After a second or two, you should see the pin get shinier, as the solder wicks onto it from the pad, and from your iron. You should only need a second or two per pin. Don't hold your iron on each pin too long, or you'll burn the chip and the board.

Once you've got the USB chip soldered on, breathe a sigh of relief. The rest is easy compared to this. Here's what your board looks like now:

Next step

First, solder the FTDI FT232Bm (or BL) chip to the board. This is the hardest component to solder, since it's a surface-mount chip. The dot on corner of the chip has to line up with the dot on the board where the chip goes.

You can solder this part to the board without any solder. Just clean the solder pads on the board and the ends of the pins with solder flux. Then position the chip very precisely. Hold it down with a toothpick or other implement that will hold it steady. Tin your iron then wipe off any excess colder, leafing just a thin, shiny coat on the iron. Touch the tip of the iron to a corner pin of the chip. After a second or two, you should see the pin get shinier, as the solder wicks onto it from the pad, and from your iron. You should only need a second or two per pin. Don't hold your iron on each pin too long, or you'll burn the chip and the board.

Tack the chip down by soldering pins on two opposite corners first. Then you won't need to hold it with a toothpick anymore, and can hold the board steady with your other hand. Once you've got the corners done, go around the board and solder each pin down the same way as you did the corners.

First, solder the FTDI FT232Bm (or BL) chip to the board. This is the hardest component to solder, since it's a surface-mount chip.

Here's how to assemble an Arduino USB 2.0 board.

Here's how to assemble an Arduino USB 2.0 board.